LAKWATSA

It has been fifteen years since my first and last trip to the southern part of the country. In June 1991, when a product development assignment in Catbalogan, Samar, came to an end, I embarked on a backpacking trip that would take me further down south to the Visayan and Mindanao islands. I started my journey by crossing the San Juanico Bridge to Tacloban, Leyte. However, the calamitous eruption of Mount Pinatubo prevented me from continuing with my adventure. Since then, I became a stranger to my own country as I traveled to other parts of the world.

On a last-minute’s chance as typhoon Glenda veered out of the country last month, I flew down south once again - for the first time after fifteen years! This time direct to Dumaguete City in Negros Island, bypassing the other islands I intended to visit years ago.

Looking down as the plane descended into the city, I was in high spirits noting that between the deep blue sea, the green grass-swathed mountains, and cerulean blue skies, Dumaguete looked like a pretty painting - a sight I did not expect of a destination I barely knew.

About an hour’s flight via Air Philippines and some 364 kilometers south of Manila, Dumaguete, dubbed as the City of Gentle People, is the capital, principal seaport, and largest city of Negros Oriental. As we passed by the old Belfry and the Silliman University along Rizal Boulevard, I could not help but notice a distinctly serene charm despite the clambering urbanization around these nostalgic remains of a bygone era.

GREETED BY DOLPHINS!

Driving down south to our destination Antulang Beach Resort, I noted that Dumaguete and its environs brimmed with natural wonders waiting to be discovered. And because the province stretches over low, serrated mountain ranges that lie close to the shoreline, it makes for pleasant driving. The view is a calm stretch of coastline with lush green fields, punctuated by clumps of quaint houses and resorts dotting the beaches.

Nestled forty kilometers south of Dumaguete City, in the municipality of Siaton, Antulang Beach Resort is one of the select resorts in the Philippines with private pool villas. Heavenly in all aspects, Antulang is suspended on ten sprawling hectares of limestone cliffs peppered with lush, colorful bougainvilleas, star plants, wild blackberry trees, and antulang (gumamela or hibiscus) from which the resort takes its name, private pool villas, premium rooms, swimming pools and other facilities are positioned right at the cliffs’ edge, ensuring guests a commanding view of an endless sea, while a labyrinth of winding staircases lead directly to a graceful stretch of powdery white sand beach dotted here and there with a myriad of shells depicting the intricate patterns of beauty. Because the resort is right smack at the edge of the southernmost tip of the island, Antulang may very well be one of the few spots on this island to boast of also a magnificent sunrise the next day.

Gracious owners, and our hosts - Edo and Annabelle Adriano, and Resident Manager Bernice Gantalao, greeted us at the Farola Restaurant overlooking the Mindanao Sea, where as if welcoming us, a shoal of spinner dolphins made a surprise appearance to give us an unexpected display of playful antics.

Our activity-filled day started as we sailed in the resort’s catamaran to the nearby Tambobo Bay. Tambobo Bay as we found out was actually one of the two choice sites when the Americans were looking for a naval base in the country. They opted for the wider and expansive Subic Bay instead. Today, Tambobo Bay’s serene waterscape is dotted with state-of-the-art yachts from all over the world with their owners finding solace within the tranquil surroundings of the Island’s private shores.

After a mid-afternoon photo shoot, our group drove out of the resort to explore Dumaguete City. First stop was at the acacia tree-lined Rizal Boulevard, named after Dr. Jose Rizal who created the nickname “City of Gentle People” for Dumaguete during his brief stopover in this town in August 1896.

TEMPURA ‘TA BAY!

Most people say that you’ve never been to Dumaguete at all if you have not strolled down the promenade where preserved lampposts, pre-war colonial-style homes, and an old hotel restored to its former grandeur are sights never to be missed. With a commanding view of Cebu Island on the left and Siquijor on the right, we settled on the boardwalk amongst street stalls with neatly arranged monobloc chairs and tables to sample Dumaguete’s most famous and interesting street delicacy called “tempura,” yet another “you-haven’t-been-to-Dumaguete” kind of thing if you didn’t indulge in it.

Selling at PhP3.00 apiece, the “tempura,” shaped like the popular Japanese prawn dish, is a concoction of flour, seafood ingredients and seasonings, is deep-fried and threaded onto bamboo skewers then served with a sweet-sour-spicy dip. I must admit that I’ve gone way beyond being adventurous with this one as I gobbled-up at least six, while listening to a lone boardwalk artist singing an endless repertoire of James Taylor hits!

A TECH-SAVVY CAMPUS

After that tummy-filling, street food adventure, we walked over to the old American architecture-filled Silliman University founded in 1901 by Dr. Horace B. Silliman. Dumaguete has earned the distinction of being known as “the center of learning in the south” due to the presence of several universities and colleges. The city’s ambience and tranquil, moderate way of life make it conducive to learning and intellectual pursuits. It has become a melting pot of students, professionals, artists, scholars and the literati coming from different parts of the country and the world. Silliman is the first Philippine university outside Manila and the country’s first and oldest Protestant university, and the oldest American-established university in Asia.

When I excused myself to find an internet cafe to access an important message, our charming host who is an alumnus of the university pointed out that the entire campus was wifi-ready. Voila! My laptop and I were instantly connected to the world wide web, doing business as I sat quietly and leisurely on a bench under the nostalgic architectural grandeur of the historic Silliman Hall.

From the tranquil and scholarly ambience of Silliman, we drove to see more historical sites like the Dumaguete Belfry, the city’s most popular architectural landmark which was built in 1811 to warn town folks of attacks by marauding pirates; and the Dumaguete Catholic Cathedral and Jose Rizal monument in nearby Quezon Park.

For the “progressive” dinner which our lovely host Annabelle organized, we were treated to one of Dumaguete’s culinary prides Chicken Inato at Jo’s House of Chicken Inato. Then we had the delightful Frozen Cappuccino for dessert at Mamia’s. After dinner the group explored other foodie places along Rizal Boulevard which included the popular Sans Rival Bakeshop, where we pre-ordered that popular buttery pastry and cassava cake.

SUN, SEA, SURF AND MORE . . .

On our second day, we took on the sea once more and sailed to Apo Island on board the MB Annabelle Lee. Antulang prides itself in being Dumaguete’s only resort with its own fully-furnished and fitted trimaran. Apo Island, a 72-hectare lump of volcanic rock boasts having one of the country’s finest marine reserves and is one of Asia’s top dive sites.

Jonathan Alerre, the resort’s PADI-certified dive instructor was on board to share his expertise as the group delved into the water to bond with denizens of the deep.

Back at the resort, the group embarked on another exhilarating activity - rappelling, where I have finally conquered one of my fears. Height! While each of us waited for our turn to descend the 20-meter limestone cliff, our bellies were treated to more delish dishes and Dumaguete’s very own deep-fried Panda Ice Cream.

At Waldo’s Bar (named after the resort’s architect, the late Waldo Bautista) that night, we dined on another local dish called halang-halang chicken - a cross between tinola and Thailand’s tom kar gai.

On our last day, another adventure awaited us at Forest Camp in Valencia town where we rode six all-terrain vehicles (ATV’s) to visit the Japanese Shrine at the dormant Mount Talinis where a grand panoramic view of Dumaguete’s shoreline can be seen.

The nearby Casaroro Falls, a cascade of crystal clear and cool mountain water that is surrounded by tall precipices and dense undergrowth was also a refreshing sight to behold. At lunch, we savored yet another version of the halang-halang prepared by our hosts Florante and Melba Vicuna. And for merienda, there was the exotic bread fruit smothered with latik, seasonal local fruits like santol, duhat, and more.At the Sans Rival Bakeshop, we collected our horde of sans rival, silvanas, and cassava cake prior to our depature.

As the plane took off, I looked down on Dumaguete City once again. Beyond the vastness of the sea, the horizon stretched towards infinity. I am a stranger no more.

For more information about Antulang Beach Resort, call Dumaguete Booking Office at Telephone: +63-35-4270338 to 39; Mobile: +63-917-7002766; Fax: +63-35-2250392; Email: info@antulang.com or visit its website at www.antulang.com.

How to get there: Air Philippines flies direct to Dumaguete City. Please call Edna Patricio at +63-2-8559000 or visit www.airphils.com for further details.

Photography by YVETTE LEE.

Originally published in WHAT’S ON & EXPAT, Vol. XXV No. 32, 13-19 August 2006.