LAKWATSA

Last weekend, we boarded a chartered SEAIR flight to Baler (in Aurora Province), to celebrate with Balerians their town’s 397^th Anniversary, and the late former Commonwealth President Manuel Luis Quezon’s 128^th birthday. The late President Quezon was born here on 19^th August 1878.

As the plane made its final descent, the picturesque Sierra Madre mountain range and Aurora’s coastal line came into view. Myself, originally from another province (Isabela) north of Aurora did not expect to see such a magnificent and serene sight. Suddenly, my fear of small propeller planes was gone and was replaced by sheer exhilaration at the thought of yet another wonderful experience ahead.

A HISTORIC TOWN

Baler, founded in 1609 by the Franciscan missionaries, has a rich cultural heritage, not only as the birthplace of Manuel L. Quezon, the first president of the Philippine Commonwealth and the father of the national language, but also for being the last bastion of Spanish forces during the Spanish Revolution. In 1572, the Spanish explorer Juan de Salcedo, nephew of Miguel de Legazpi, founder of the City of Manila, became the first European to visit the region that would be known as Aurora while he was exploring the northern coast of Luzon. Salcedo reportedly visited the towns of Casiguran, Baler and Infanta.

In 1899, then President Emilio Aguinaldo went a step further when he issued a decree in June 30, which honored the “uncommon valor” of the Spanish soldiers. Aguinaldo also gave them safe passes and allowed their immediate transport to Spain. This was the first official gesture of reconciliation between the Philippines and Spain after a long and bitter war. This decree is the anchor of R.A. 9187, highlighting the “Siege of Baler” as the event for the renewal of the long-neglected historical and cultural ties between the Philippines and its former colonial motherland for more than 300 years. Baler has been the center of festivities since the Philippines-Spain Friendship Day was first officially celebrated in 2003.

Historical accounts also have it that the old town proper, known as Kinagunasan, was wiped out by a tsunami in December 27, 1735, killing all of its 500 families. It is said that only four families, known as the “Tromba Marina,” survived the tragedy which included the Angaras, Bitong, Carrasco, and Lumasac families.

Hovering above dense coconut plantations and green rice fields, I noticed a group of uniformed Balerians rush towards the airport terminal and formed neat rows. Ah ha! I smiled at the thought of what I think they were there for.

A COLOURFUL & SABUTAN-FUL WELCOME!

As we got off the plane, we were greeted by “sabutan” dress-clad girls carrying “sabutan” leis and hats. Lined up in front of the terminal’s arrival gates was a brass marching band one the left and a group of majorettes on the right, performing with their batons.

The author with Christine Dayrit and Loida Rapal at Juan C. Angara Airport in San Luis, Aurora.

Mrs. Nini Quezon-Avancena and son Enrique.

With the “sabutan” dress-clad lei girls.

From the airport we were driven to the town’s plaza where a street dancing competition was already in its final proceedings. We were welcomed and ushered onto the stage by Cesar Christopher Gonzales, Aurora Province’s Provincial Tourism Officer.

The colourful and lively tableau of students in colourful costumes incorporating the local “sabutan” in front of us was an exhilarating sight, as was their repeat performances for us late-comers!

After the program, we proceeded to our host’s residence – Senator Edgardo J. Angara’s beachside abode, where we were accommodated for the duration of our 4-day stay. A wonderful lunch treat awaited us. There was lechon baboy, inihaw na isda, grilled chicken, the local dish ginataang pako with suso (fiddlehead fern with snails in coconut milk), loads of fresh fruits, boiled peanuts, and suman served with local coco jam.

With Governor Bellaflor Angara-Castillo.

After lunch, the dynamic Aurora Province Governor Bellaflor Angara-Castillo arrived at the residence. After a brief introduction and tete-a-tete, Governor Angara-Castillo gave us a tour of two on-going projects of her government: one, the P130-million rice processing complex in Barangay Reserva which is expected to be completed by the end of the year; and two, the P12-million coco fiber mill which will produce coco coir and coco ropes, which she aptly calls “cash in thrash” as the fiber comes from abandoned coconut husks normally found in coconut groves around the province.

From thrash: coconut husks waiting to be processed.

To cash: processed coco fiber.

It was followed by a visit to the PNP Headquarters where a shooting competition was being held in conjunction with the town fiesta.

At nearby Bay’s Inn along Sabang Beach, we were treated to a tummy-filling snack of lomi, pork barbeque, pizzas, and fruits.

Back at the town plaza where it was abuzz with preparations for an all-night dancing party with bands from Manila, we toured the “Mini Trade Fair” wherein five barangays set up booths done in the traditional nipa hut style featuring and highlighting various products which included “sabutan” handicrafts, coconut by-products like the yummy coco jam, and local delicacies like the “sinantol” (a concoction of minced santol, shrimp paste and coconut milk), among others.

Posing infront of the Barangay Reserva Booth.

At Museo de Baler that night, we were in for a cultural treat which included performances by the Ilongot and Dumagat natives, and students and teachers from various schools. We were enthralled by a rich tableau of colourful and historic dances depicting lives of Balerians with the theme “Buhay Baler, Buhay Aurora.” The night’s performance was opened by a song by an Ilongot native followed by Ilongot tribal war dance suite which segued to the “Buhay Katagalugan” suite depicting Aurora’s rural life on the lowlands, and the “Komedya de Baler” (or Moro-Moro) suite, depicting the conflicts between Muslims and Christian settlers. We were also told that the “Komedya de Baler” suite, normally performed during the Feast of San Luis Obispo, Patron Saint of Baler, was a favourite of the late President Quezon.

Here are some photos . . .

After the performance, we once again indulged ourselves in a festive dinner treat at the Senator’s residence where guests happily mingled with one another and were regaled with stories and anecdotes about this town.

Photos by Yvette Lee.